Kerman et le désert (Iran)

Big pots at the Ganjali-khan square

Big pots at the Ganjali-khan square

Ceramics in the old hamam

Ceramics in the old hamam

At the hammam

At the hammam

Solar stone, to give the time in the hammam

Solar stone, to give the time in the hammam

Tea-house in a different old hamam

Tea-house in a different old hamam

Yakhchal, an ancient icehouse to store ice until summertime

Yakhchal, an ancient icehouse to store ice until summertime

In Shah-Nehematollah's shrine in Mahan

In Shah-Nehematollah's shrine in Mahan

Shah-e-zadeh's garden in Mahan near Kerman

Shah-e-zadeh's garden in Mahan near Kerman

Just outside Shah-e-zadeh's garden

Just outside Shah-e-zadeh's garden

Just outside Shah-e-zadeh's garden

Just outside Shah-e-zadeh's garden

Mosque in Kerman

Mosque in Kerman

Mosque in Kerman

Mosque in Kerman

New mosque being born

New mosque being born

The oldest mosque in Kerman

The oldest mosque in Kerman

The oldest mosque in Kerman

The oldest mosque in Kerman

Old and pretty tiles (or pretty old tiles?)

Old and pretty tiles (or pretty old tiles?)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)

Sky seen from the qanat (water shaft) in the desert

Sky seen from the qanat (water shaft) in the desert

The walls tells you there is a qanat running underneath

The walls tells you there is a qanat running underneath

Trumpet having a sunbath

Trumpet having a sunbath

Beautiful light in the Shahdad desert

Beautiful light in the Shahdad desert

Blackish sand, Shahdad desert

Blackish sand, Shahdad desert

The crazy show for me in the Shahdad desert

The crazy show for me in the Shahdad desert

Changing light

Changing light

Sunset in the desert

Sunset in the desert

Sheep sky (time to go back home)

Sheep sky (time to go back home)

Big pots at the Ganjali-khan squareCeramics in the old hamamAt the hammamSolar stone, to give the time in the hammamTea-house in a different old hamamYakhchal, an ancient icehouse to store ice until summertimeIn Shah-Nehematollah's shrine in MahanShah-e-zadeh's garden in Mahan near KermanJust outside Shah-e-zadeh's gardenJust outside Shah-e-zadeh's gardenMosque in KermanMosque in KermanNew mosque being bornThe oldest mosque in KermanThe oldest mosque in KermanOld and pretty tiles (or pretty old tiles?)The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)The road to the desert (looks desertic enough to me!)Sky seen from the qanat (water shaft) in the desertThe walls tells you there is a qanat running underneathTrumpet having a sunbathBeautiful light in the Shahdad desertBlackish sand, Shahdad desertThe crazy show for me in the Shahdad desertChanging lightSunset in the desertSheep sky (time to go back home)

I stayed in Kerman only for two nights, but the enthusiasm and dedication of my host allowed to see quite a lot in those two days. Hamams, the shrine of an inspired poet in Mahan, some ice-houses and other places of interest… He even arranged for me to attend a choir repetition, which has been a really nice experience. It was interesting to see that they did have some musical/cultural activity going on – and that choir was of very good quality! – even on a small scale. And those people welcomed be warmly, of course (it was Iran after all!) ;)  It has been an intense and true time in Kerman.

The reason I originally wanted to stop in Kerman was to see the desert, if possible. It has indeed been possible, thanks to my amazing host who even though he was quite sick the second day, wanted to stick to the plan and drove four of us to the desert. There was him, his wife, a young friend of the family, and an older one, a sixty-something energetic woman they had nicknamed « Mademoiselle » because she had remained a spinster. She had been showing me the town around that second morning. She was very worried at first because she couldn’t speak English, and she didn’t know I knew some Persian by then. How would we communicate? But we did manage, I tried my best to show I had a big interest in learning Persian, and we got along really well, laughing a lot. She wanted to take care of me, called her niece in Teheran to have her translate a few sweet words she wanted to share with me. She also came prepared to the desert expedition and after having put on some make up and props, she did a crazy dance show for us, dressed up as a man! It was a really nice experience. Going to the desert, I enjoyed the barren dramatic landscapes a lot. I was especially happy to get beautiful pictures of the Road, as if I were hitchhiking again…  :)

Oh, by the way, this desert is so desertic that if you put any sand under the microscope, you supposedly won’t find any form of life…

 

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